How to buy a secondhand bike
How to buy a secondhand bike
If you’re in the market for a new bike, but your budget is slim, second-hand could be the way to go. You might need to compromise on looks - the paintwork will probably have lost its showroom sheen and the spec will be somewhere between last season and yesteryear - but the smart shopper can pick up an amazing ride for a fraction of the price of a box-fresh purchase.
Finding a secondhand bike
With no shortage of places to advertise second-hand bikes, in theory it’s never been easier to bag a two-wheeled bargain. But, the sheer volume of choice can be daunting, and separating the wheat from the chafe to pin-point your dream buy is inevitably going to take a little time.
Besides auction sites like eBay, it’s worth scouring dedicated second-hand websites like Preloved, Facebook groups such as Bikes for Sale and for an old-school approach keep an eye on the local paper classifieds. Don’t be afraid to quiz sellers and ask for extra photos if need be. Avoid ads which use a generic catalogue pic of the bike as new - you want pictures of what is actually for sale.
Streamline your search by giving some thought to the type of bike you want and buy a bike from a cyclist as they should have taken better care of it.
Sites like Singletrackworld and Pinkbike have classified forums full of high-end used mountain bikes.The road.cc forum specialises in second-hand road bikes. Bikeradar, and Cycling UK’s own forum meanwhile, cover the whole shebang.
Sourcing a bike through these forums has other advantages over catch-all second-hand sites - they have a genuine sense of community which looks after its own, quickly weeding out scammers and leaping on suspicious activity.
That’s not to say would-be buyers don’t get stung when dealing with relative unknowns. One way to eliminate the risk factor altogether is to speak to your local bike shop or hire service. They’ll have second-hand bike stock from trade-ins, as well as ex-demo or ex-hire bikes. They’ll be well-maintained and serviced and - as the shop is trading on their reputation - they’d be daft to knowingly sell you a duff. If something does go wrong, you’ve at least got some comeback.
The smart shopper can pick up an amazing ride for a fraction of the price of a box-fresh purchase.
Robin Eveleigh, Drover Cycles
If you know the exact bike you want
Bike recycling schemes
It’s worth finding out if there are any bike recycling centres in your area - they give new life to old steeds destined for the skip, and provide valuable job and skills training to boot. Bristol’s ‘Bike Back’ is one successful project.
If you already have a bike that needs fixing you could take it to a Big Bike Revival event.
How not to buy a stolen bike
One final word of warning: Inevitably, stolen bikes crop up on the second-hand market. If the price is too good to be true, there’s probably an angry ex-owner somewhere filling out an insurance claim.
Ask questions about the bike, do they have the original documents or a receipt? Find out as much information as you can about the bike you are buying.
If it turns out you have bought a stolen bike and the original owner can be traced, you will be forced to give the bike back and it will be a long and complicated process to try and get your money back from the thief.
Found a bargain bike?
Don’t hand over your hand-earned cash unless until you’ve seen the goods and given them the once over (unless you’re certain you can trust the seller - maybe they’re a good friend or reputed second-hand bike dealer)
If you’re a mechanical ignoramus, it’s a good idea to take someone along to the purchase who knows what to look for, or pay your local bike shop to give it the once over. Generally, you should check the bike is in the condition described in the sale advert.
Most importantly - examine the frame. If the worst comes to the worst, components can be replaced, but a cracked or seriously dented frame is a no-no. (OK, some defects can be remedied by a skilled welder - but do you really want to go down that route?) Look at the welds and stress points and examine them for cracks. Pay attention to chainstays for signs of chain-suck damage.
Bear in mind that damage to carbon frames can be difficult or impossible to detect without having the bike X-Rayed. Ask if the bike has suffered any crashes and if the seller ‘fesses up - avoid!
Look for play in areas where bearings are used - the bottom bracket, headset and and wheel hubs. On full-suspension bikes also check the pivot points and bearings for wear, and examine suspension forks and shocks carefully, too. They can cost a fortune to replace, quickly turning your bargain buy into a money-pit!
Try and find out a little history of the bike - has it had one careful owner who bought from new? Do they have original sales documents or manuals? Have they kept on top of service intervals?
Has the bike been modified from new? Is the frame designed to take those super long-travel forks. Has the seller been busy with his tool kit, drilling holes for dropper seatposts? It happens!
Modifications which take the frame away from its original design can cause stresses and weaknesses which you’ll only discover when you’re pushing it hard - and your bike drops to pieces!
Doing the deal - buying a second-hand bike
Ideally, you want to meet in person, especially if you’re buying from a classified ad, second-hand site or forum. Sites like Singletrack set out clear guidelines for sellers and provide advice for buyers to help them avoid pitfalls - but bear in mind they are not responsible if your sale goes wrong.
You can consider meeting in a well-lit public place - but weigh this up against meeting the seller at their home address or workplace, where you’re more likely to get a sniff of something fishy. You’ll also have a physical bricks and mortar address to return to if there’s need for comeback.
Get a receipt, along with the seller’s name and contact info. Chances are, once the deal is done, it’s done. Second-hand items are usually sold ‘as seen’ - if you don’t spot something is wrong at the point of sale, you may be stuck with your dud.
It’s a different story with an auction site like eBay.
Beyond the peer-reviewing process - designed to weed out unscrupulous traders - eBay provide buyer protection and a thorough mediation process if you feel you’ve been cheated.
Paypal also offers some protection against scammers - as long as you don’t ‘gift’ your payment to the seller. If a seller asks you to send payment as gift so they can avoid PayPal fees, be warned that you’ll have no come-back if you’re stung.
Above all - look before you leap. Buying secondhand can turn up some amazing bargains, but it isn’t for everyone - if you’re not willing to put the time and effort into the research, or if you want the back-up and warranties that come with a new purchase, you’re best off digging deep and stumping up the cash.